Barbarian days: a surfing life

R$ 73,90

Sinopse

A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writerWINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZESurfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

Participantes

Autor: William Finnegan

Autor

WILLIAM FINNEGAN

William Finnegan (Nova York, 1952) é um jornalista com vasta experiência em cobertura de conflitos. Da Somália ao México, do Sudão à África do Sul, escreveu sobre guerras, refugiados, apartheid e política. Causou espanto em seus colegas ao publicar Dias bárbaros: uma vida no surfe (2017), uma autobiografia guiada por sua paixão quase secreta pelo surfe. Premiadas com um Pulitzer (Biografia, 2016), suas memórias revelam um ardor pelo esporte que começou na infância e o fez viajar o mundo em busca de ondas perfeitas a partir de um ponto de vista muito particular.