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OBJETO
DE DESEJO
Stand crater's-edge and gaze at the river of fire in Etna's Valle del Bove
Get serious about Mediterranean architecture with classical temples and bijou Byzantine chapels
Haggle hard and eat copiously at the island's raucous markets and rustic restaurants
Make like the movie stars with volcanic mud packs and seawater Jacuzzis in the Aeolians
In This Guide
Locals tell it how it is, from anti-Mafia campaigners to traditional chocolatiers
Get off the beaten track with competition-beating information on volcano treks and rural residences
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